陈松贵,张华庆,陈汉宝,郑金海.不规则波在筑堤珊瑚礁上传播的大水槽实验研究[J].海洋通报,2018,(5):576-582
不规则波在筑堤珊瑚礁上传播的大水槽实验研究
Experimental study of irregular wave transformation on reefs with seawalls in large wave flume
投稿时间:2017-12-20  修订日期:2018-02-27
DOI:
中文关键词:  珊瑚礁  大比尺波浪水槽  防浪堤  浅水变形  低频波浪  波浪增水
英文关键词:coral reefs  large wave flume  revetments  shallow water deformation  low frequency waves  wave setup
基金项目:国家重点研发计划 (2016YFC1402800);中央级公益性科研院所基本科研业务费 (TKS150101);天津市科技计划项目(16ZXFWGX00050)
作者单位E-mail
陈松贵 交通运输部天津水运工程科学研究院天津 300456河海大学 港口海岸与近海工程学院江苏 南京 210098 chensg05@163.com 
张华庆 交通运输部天津水运工程科学研究院天津 300456  
陈汉宝 交通运输部天津水运工程科学研究院天津 300456  
郑金海 河海大学 港口海岸与近海工程学院江苏 南京 210098  
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中文摘要:
      基于大比尺波浪水槽模型实验,开展了不规则波在建有防浪堤的珊瑚礁陡变地形上传播变形规律的研究。采用弗劳德相似准则,通过 1 : 20 的物理模型实验,模拟了不同水位和波高周期条件下,波浪从深水 (d/L0>1/2) 到极浅水 (d/L0>1/50)的传播-破碎-壅水过程。实验测得了陡坡 19 m 水深和 7 m 水深的浅水变形系数,结果表明波浪在陡变地形上的浅水变形系数与缓坡地形差别较大,且在一定范围内随相对水深的减小而减小;随着传播距离的增加,高频能量不断减小,能量会向低频转 移,产生 10 倍以上入射波周期的低频波浪,且越靠近防浪墙,低频能量越大,水位壅高越大;利用低通滤波技术,测得了礁盘上壅水显著,结果表明防浪堤前的平均波浪增水与外海入射波高的平方成正比。
英文摘要:
      Irregular wave transformation and deformation on reefs with revetments was studied in large wave flume. The physical modeling was constructed with 1:20 scaling by Froude law. The processes including wave transformation,breaking,and setup were reproduced from deep water (d/L0>1/2) to shallow water (d/L0>1/50). Coefficient of shallow water deformation at 19 m and 7 m was obtained. In contrast to results at shallow slope, coefficient of shallow water deformation decreases as relative water depth decrease. When waves propagate over the reef platform, the distribution of wave energy in the wave spectrum is changed with wave energy dominance shifting to lower frequency, and also waves with more than ten times longer period were observed. The closer it gets to revetments the spectrum peak will become higher. Wave setups over reefs are obtained according to low-pass filtering. The results show that wave setups in front of revetments are linear with square of wave height in deep water and are uncorrelated with wave period in deep water.
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